Urban Survivalists

Fair warning…this is a very long and detailed post. We include detailed, step-by-step instructions for what we are doing as well as DXF and PDF files of the plans and lots of pictures. If you intend to replicate our work, read over this stuff many times. Measure nine times, cut once.

Last week, we went through the basic concept of how we were going to piece together the water filtration system. This week we received one of the two necessary pumps for the filtration system and are going to show you how the pumps are incorporated into the big picture.

Now that we know the size of the inlet and outlet on the pump, we can go get fixtures to attach the pump to the barrels and RO system. Below, we have made you an image depicting what kinds of major items were needed to create a working filtration system for our home. The image below represents the larger picture of the filtration system we are trying to create.

Now that you know what the big picture is, it is time to look at all the smaller pieces of the puzzle. All those components need to be attached to each other, and this is how you do it. Below is an image of the types of components we bought for this design.

1. CPVC cement
2. CPVC 1/2″ 100psi pipe
3. Sillcock valve
4. 1/2″ 100psi ball valve
5. 1/4″ self tapping saddle valve
6. 3/4″ solenoid sprinkler valve
7. Nibco 4703 3/4″ CPVC threaded adapt.
8. Nibco 4701 CPL 101 1/2″
9. Nibco 3/4″ to 1/2″ CPVC 90 EL.
10. Nibco C4703-CT 1/2″ threaded brass to CPVC adapter
11. Plumbers threading tape
12. Nibco 4703 1/2″ CPVC threaded adapt.
13. Nibco 4707 1/2″ 90 EL.
14. 14 gauge primary wire
15. 10-22 AWG crimper and stripper
16. 100psi 12 VDC @ 8amp Shurflo diaphragm pump rated for 1.4 GPM with built in pressure sensor
17. #8-#10 stud vinyl insulated spade terminals
18. #4-#6 stud vinyl insulated spade terminals
19. Terminal strip

The reason why we decided we had to go with 100psi fixtures and pipe is because the reverse osmosis system is designed to run at a minimum of 60 psi, and preferably at 100 psi. The fixtures have to be able to withstand the pressure that will be needed in the line for the reverse osmosis system.

Construction of the various parts and pieces of this system will progress in tandom with each other. We will prepare the valves for attachment to the piping system as well as the pump but then put them aside for later. The filter box will be constructed from 3/4″ plywood but will not be finished out until later. The electronics system we are currently designing and it will not be put in until a later post. The moral of the story is, if you aren’t willing to possibly waste money–which we don’t recommend–then wait till we have a whole subsystem put together and inside the box before attempting to copy us. We’ll be slowly building coherent documentation on this system as we go so it will get easier to do with time.

On that note, let’s get started.

Attaching adapters to sprinkler valves

We initially thought we would be needing two electronically controlled sprinkler valves but later found that we were, once again, wrong. Only one valve is needed so that’s all we will be using. We had to attach some adapters to the 3/4″ valve because we need to get the outlet hole down to the 1/2″ diam. size we need in order to connect the valve to the pipe. Each end of the valve is threaded at 3/4″ so we bought four,but we really only needed two, of the 3/4″ threaded adapters to bring the connection out to a normal 3/4″ CPVC pipe fitting. From that, we used a 1/2″ to 3/4″ elbow adapter to bring it down to the desired 1/2″ pipe size. In between the 3/4″ threaded adapter and the 1/2″ to 3/4″ elbow adapter, we used a 1/2″ coupler section to join the two adapters. There is probably an easier, more elegant way to do it, but that’s what we saw while we were at Home Depot.

We had PVC cement on hand but since this is CPVC, we had to buy yet another type of cement. It wasn’t that expensive so it isn’t a big deal. Plus, the primer we had from the rainwater system works with this cement too so we saved some money there.

The order of operation for this step is as follows (Remember to do this in a well ventilated place):

1. Gather components
   • PTFE pipe thread sealer
   • Two 3/4″ threaded adapters
   • Two 1/2″ couplers
   • One 3/4″ WaterMaster solinoid sprinkler valve
2. Wrap 3/4″ threaded adapter threads with PTFE pipe thread sealer liberarlly
3. Screw 3/4″ threaded adapters into both ends of the sprinkler valve and tightly firmly. DON”T OVER TIGHTEN!
4. Primer other ends of the 3/4″ threaded adapters for fitting of the 1/2″ couplers
5. Primer the 1/2″ couplers for fitting into the 3/4″ threaded adapters
6. Apply CPVC cement to ONE OF 3/4″ threaded adapter where you just applied primer (Note that you don’t need to apply CPVC cement to the 1/2″ couplers as we can be seen doing in the picture sequences below. It’s too much cement.)
7. Insert a 1/2″ coupler to the 3/4″ threaded adapter you just applied cement too and hold firmly in place for 1 minute or until it does not slip out when pressure is released
8. Apply CPVC cement to the other 3/4″ threaded adapter
9. Insert the other 1/2″ coupler into this 3/4″ threaded adapter and hold firmly in place for 1 minute or until it does not slip out when pressure is released

Put the valve aside and let’s continue on to the next task.

Building the component box

You will need the following tools and hardware for this:

1. Skillsaw
2. Drill
3. Phillips driver bit
4. 60 degree counter sink bit.
5. 5/32″ drill bit
6. 1/4″ drill bit
7. One 1/4″ transfere punch
8. Two 18″ slide clamps
9. Two 2″ c-clamps
10. Twenty #10 x 2-1/2″ phillips wood screws
11. Two 1/4-20 x 1-1/2″ bolts
12. Two 1/4-20 nuts
13. Four 1/4 x 1″ flat washers

The following raw material/parts:

1. Two 24″ x 13″
2. Two 7″ x 6″
3. One 24″ x 24″
4. One 13″ x 12″
5. One RO system with mount bracket

I cut my wood with a skillsaw since I don’t have a table saw. In order to get a nice straight cut with a skillsaw–important for stuff like this–I had to put another piece of wood on top of the one I was cutting as a guide for my skillsaw. I align the wood so that it puts my blade in the right place, including consideration of the kerf (cut width), then clamp the two boards together with a couple of 2″ C-clamps. Next I ran the cut making sure my skillsaw’s plane edge maintains contact with the guide board I just lined up. In this way I can insure that my cuts are at least as straight as the board I use to guide the saw. No need for a big expensive table saw or other devices. Granted, this process does take extra time and some getting used to but it produces good results as you can see. Every thing comes out square.

We had to lay out all the parts for the filter box before we could decide what would be a reasonable solution for its shape and material. You are saved this trouble since we now have drawings for you to use. The dxf file–viewable in AutoCAD (fee-ware) or qCAD (open source) or just about any other CAD package–as well as a pdf are at the end of the document.

A few notes on the dxf file. There are layers. If you get confused about what layers go to what, turn some layers off and observe the layer names. I’ve included both the dimensions for the wood pieces and the dimensions for the placement of the wood relative to each other and the screws. These are nominal dimensions so take it with a grain of salt as you may have to jigger things around when you are clamping, drilling and screwing things together.

And now, the steps of this operation:

1. Cut out plywood pieces.
2. Assemble the 13″ x 12″ piece and the two 7″ x 6″ pieces as detailed in the drawings and photos 1-8. This is the SHELF.
   1. You will need the following materials and tools:
      • Drill
      • 5/32″ drill bit
      • 60 degree counter sink
      • Two 18″ slide clamps
      • Four #10 x 2-1/2″ phillips wood screws
      • One 13″ x 12″ x 3/4″ plywood panel
      • Two 7″ x 6″ x 3/4″ plywood panels
   2. Clamp one of the two 7″ x 6″ pieces to the 13″ x 12″ with the two slide clamps as shown in the drawing and the photos. That is, along one of the 12″ edges 3″ from either end.
   3. Mark the positions of the two holes at 5″ and 7″ from one end along the 12″ sides.
   4. Drill out the two holes to a depth of about 1-1/2″.
   5. Counter sink the tops of the two holes so that once the screws are in place they are flush with the surface of the wood.
   6. Screw in the two #10 x 2-1/2″ wood screws.
   7. Repeat steps 2-6 for the second of the 7″ x 6″ plywood panels on the other side of the 13″ x 12″ panel.
3. Assemble the SHELF and one of the 24″ x 13″ pieces as detailed in the drawings and photos 9-10. This is the BASE.
   1. You will need the following materials and tools:
      • Drill
      • 5/32″ drill bit
      • 60 degree counter sink
      • Two 18″ slide clamps
      • Four #10 x 2-1/2″ phillips wood screws
      • The SHELF
      • One 24″ x 13″ x 3/4″ plywood panel
   2. Clamp the SHELF and the 24″ x 13″ panel as shown in photo 9 below. Two marks 3″ from the 13″ edge of the 24″ x 13″ panel need to be made which indicate where the two legs form the SHELF are to be clamped. We want the SHELF to be directly above the 24″ x 13″ panel when it is laid flat so that our box will be square.
   3. Mark 4 holes (two on either side) for the screws that will attach the larger panel to the SHELF. These holes are a mirror image of those done in order to make the SHELF. They will be at 5″ and 7″ from the 13″ end of the larger panel and 3/8″ in from the 24″ sides on either side.
   4. Drill the four 5/32″ holes.
   5. Counter bore the 5/32″ holes with the 60 degree counter bore.
   6. Screw in the four #10 x 2-1/2″ screws.
4. Assemble the BASE and the other 24″ x 13″ piece as detailed in the drawings and the photos. This is the FRAME.
   1. You will need the following materials and tools:
      • Drill
      • 5/32″ drill bit
      • 60 degree counter sink
      • Two 18″ slide clamps
      • Six #10 x 2-1/2″ phillips wood screws
      • The BASE
      • One 24″ x 13″ x 3/4″ plywood panel
   2. Clamp the 24″ x 13″ panel to the BASE as shown in photo 11, again so that things are square.
   3. Mark three holes along the bottom edge of the 24″ x 13″ board 3/8″ in from the end at 3″, 6-1/2″, and 10″ along the 13″ edge as shown in the drawings.
   4. Mark three holes parallel to the same edge but at 8-1/8″ from the end. Space them at 3″, 6-1/2″, and 10″ same as in step 3.
   5. Drill out the six marked holes at 5/32″. Again, make sure your drill is going down square into the wood.
   6. Counter bore the six holes for the #10 wood screws.
   7. Screw in the six #10 x 2-1/2″ wood screws.
5. Assemble the FRAME and the large 24″ x 24″ remaining piece as detailed in the drawings and the photos.
   1. You will need the following materials and tools:
      • Drill
      • 5/32″ drill bit
      • 60 degree counter sink
      • Two 18″ slide clamps
      • Six #10 x 2-1/2″ phillips wood screws
      • The BASE
      • One 24″ x 24″ x 3/4″ plywood panel
   2. Clamp the BASE and the square panel together as shown in the drawings and photo 17.
   3. Mark out three holes along each of the two edges that touch the BASE at 6″, 12″, 18″ and 3/8″ in from the edges.
   4. Drill the six 5/32″ holes.
   5. Counter bore the six holes
   6. Screw in the 6 #10 x 2-1/2″ wood screws.
6. Attach the RO system to the completed box you just made.
   1. You will need the following materials and tools:
      • Drill
      • 1/4″ drill bit
      • Two 1/4-20 x 1-1/2″ bolts
      • Two 1/4-20 nuts
      • Four 1/4″ x 1″ flat washers
      • The box you just made
      • An RO system with mount bracket
   2. Place the box on the floor with the 24″ x 24″ flat side up.
   3. Place the RO system on this where you want it to hang. We placed ours 5″ down from what would be the top.
   4. Use a 1/4″ transfere punch to mark the placement of the mount holes.
   5. Use a 1/4″ drill bit and drill out the two marks you just made.
   6. Put two 1/4-20 x 1-1/2″ bolts with washers through the holes from the other side and then mount the RO system on these. Finish off by putting two more washers and then 1/4-20 nuts and tighten down to secure your RO system.

Next week

For next week we will be continuing with the layout and start putting in the piping system. We’ll also be giving you a tentative electronics schematic as well as outlining our controller software for the Arduino we will be using to control this whole mess. Stay tuned and keep reading!

P&S

DXF: Filter Box design
PDF: Filter Box design

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